Transalp with "Dr. rad"Andreas Albrecht

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Transalp 2000 - english tour report
 

Transalp 2000 – Imst-Riva

route Imst - St. Anton - Verwalltal - Fimbertal - Val d'Uina-Prad - Stilfser Joch - Bormio - Gavia-Pass - Pejo Terme - Madonna di Campiglio - Val d' Agola - Ponte Arche - Riva - Gardasee
length 400 km
elevation gain 11.425 hm
date 10.-15. september 2000
stages (6)
day route km hm
1.day Imst - Landeck- St. Anton- Verwalltal - Konstanz hut - Neue Heilbronner hut - Kops reservoir- Zeinisjoch - Galtür 85 1826
2.day Galtür - Ischgl - Fimbertal - Heidelberger hut- Fimberpass - Alp Chöglias - Vna - Ramosch - Sur En 48 1359
3.day Sur En - Val d'Uina - Schlinigpass - Sesvenna hut - Schlinig - Schleis - Laatsch - Glurns - Prad - Stilfser-Joch-road - Gomagoi - Trafoi 47 1767
4.day Trafoi- Stilfser Joch - Pass Umbrail - Bocchetta di Forcola - Malga Pedenelo - Valle Forcola - Bormio - S.Caterina 59 2371
5.day S.Caterina - Gaviapass - Pezzo - Rifugio Bozzi al Montozzo - Forcellina Montozzo - Lago di Pian Palu - Pejo Terme 53 2012
6.day Pejo Terme - Dimaro - Madonna di Campiglio - Val d' Agola - Passo Bregn de l'Ors - Stenico - Ponte Arche - Dasindo - Lago di Tenno - Riva - Torbole 109 2050
roadbooks: see report in germanclick here
maps Kompass: digital map Austria, digital map Tirol, 41, 52, 072, 73, 101,
Kümmerly & Frey - Unterengadin ISBN 3-259-00814-4,
overview: Kompass - roadmap 358  Tirol - Trentino ISBN: 3-85491-853-4
buy via Amazon: click the number of the map
tour planning Andreas Albrecht
tour guiding Andreas Albrecht
participants
  • Frank Dietrich (Pirna)
  • Tobias Schmidt (Ulm)

tour report

prologue
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loneliness und peace in the Alps zum Vergrößern klicken
Driving Transalp with the mountain bike is an incomparable fascination. Since 1994, I have been touring the Alps. To enjoy this occasion and not to let it become an incalculable risky venture, own experiences are very essential. Planning Transalp will always be a compromise between the mobility of the routes and the immersion into the world of rocks of the high mountains. The main ridge of the Alps between the Oetztaler Alps and the Hohen Tauern does not offer completely mobile crossing for bikers. At least one hour pushing or carrying the bike is always scheduled.

However, the driving should be in the centre of attention at Transalp. It is also no alternative to fall back on much travelled pass roads if the majestic event of the quiescent mountain world should be the centre of attention. More western it seems to be more favourable. Behind the Fernpass the crossings are very close and open the way to Lake Garda, the typical last stop of the Transalp, as well as for normal bikers. The wild and rugged Verwall group is run through by typical occuring V-valleys, like the Silvretta. They lead softly in a height of 2400 - 2600 metres and most parts are passable for biking. If the impregnable glacier fortress Ortler massif is detoured west the bike track appears almost automatically.
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1. day: Verwall-valley
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Verwall-valley zum Vergrößern klicken
I chose as starting point of the tour the small Tyrolean town Imst behind the Fern pass. From Lake Garda you can return here without problems whether by train, bus or bike, besides it is very inexpensive if you do not purchase international tickets. The Inn cycle path to Landeck and the distance to St. Anton at the "Arlberg" brings many, easy kilometres for "in-rolling". From this point the Verwall valley offers a first impression what Transalp provides for you. The weather does its best for us at the beginning of September, glorious sunshine, pleasant temperatures. The time is well chosen. Often there is a stable high-pressure weather situation during the first half of September, it is still warm and the tracks are not overcrowded. We enjoy the wide plateau in its tranquillity. At the Heilbronner Hütte, the crossing into the Paznaun - valley, the silence has gone. The praised mountain hut magic will not appear in the face of the crowd of ramblers.

My tour companions Frank from Dresden (he already has been to the "Ronda Dolomiti" this year) and Tobias from Ulm (he met with us via Internet) and I decide because of that to run down into the valley. Here, the advantage being on the way with the bike is visible. Hardly one hour later we are about 800 altitude metres deeper in the Paznaun - valley and move into our first accomodation.
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2. day: Fimber-valley
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Fimberpass (Andreas and Frank) zum Vergrößern klicken
The following day, another V-valley, the Fimber - valley, is waiting for us. After a powerful incline behind Ischgl the way leads us relatively gentle to the Heidelberger hut. Before that, we pass the border of Switzerland in an unspectacular way. Only a stake on a sign shows that we leave Austria. The way to the Fimber-pass requires some parts pushing the bike, but it only takes one hour and on the top, it is even passable again. During the Middle Ages dead persons from Ischgl have been brought over this pass to the graveyard to Sent in the Engadin, because the Paznaun-valley belonged to the community Sent for centuries. During the winter the path could not be used. That is why, one let the corpses deep-freeze and they have been the death in Sent in springtime.

We enjoy the demanding Single - Trail into Unterengadin in the Rhaetian part of Switzerland. The "Graubuendner language idiom" of the Rhaeto-Romanic ("romantsch grischun") is the fourth official language of Switzerland and has its origin in the Latin language. Other cognate language groups you find in South Tyrol. ("ladinisch" for example in the Grödner-valley) and the numerically biggest group in the Italian Friaul ("furlan") - source: Robert Thätig. But here the ramblers and bikers greet with "Allegra". Although, during the whole tour we only meet a few people, so we seldom can use the new language skills.
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3. day: Val d’Uina
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Val d'Uina zum Vergrößern klicken
Today, the next highlight of the tour is waiting for us. If you keep in mind the impressions of one of the most dramatical crossing for bikers in the Alps, many ramblers should not be on the way. At the alpine cheese dairy, we feast on buttermilk. Then, the track will be more narrow and the rock faces rise up vertically into the air at the end of the valley. Coming through only seems possible for alpine climbers.
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Drehkreuze am Schlinig-Pass zum Vergrößern klicken

If you look exactly, you can see the cliff gallery which was built in 1910. On the German Alp club´s initiative, a half tube has been carved into the cliff, 1.30 metres wide and a length of 600 metres. So, long detours to the Schling pass and to the today´s Sesvenna hut are passé. You should have a good head for heights. The steep track runs about 150 - 200 metres above the ground of the narrow gorge where the water is forming through. The dicey points are secured. This trail you will not forget until the end of your days. Above the gorge you cross the border to South Tyrol at the Schlinig pass. Again, you reach a new language area. We decide to take the way over the Stilfser pass because of the still stable weather situation. Fast it goes into the Etsch-valley and further to Prad and still some altitude metres up to Trafoi.
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4. day: Stilfser Joch – old war paths Kriegspfade
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Stilfser Joch:
turn 24 of 48
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The morning promises a clear day. The Stilfser pass with its 48 hairpin bends is one of the classic biker - pilgrimages in the Alps. In good 2 hours we are up there. Unfortunately, this place suffers from the crowd of people, so we go by bike further on and at the pass Umbrail we dive into the loneliness of the mountain world again. We follow the stone traces of the bloody fights from World War 1 in the Ortler area. Austrian mountain fighters and Italian "Alpinisti" fought face to face here, the Swiss cordoned their border at the pass Umbrail. The suffering of the soldiers had to be immense during the wintertime.
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military road in Valle Forcola zum Vergrößern klicken
At the Bocchetta di Forcola, in the height of 2768 metres, rests of the old fortifications are still to be seen. 50 altitude metres deeper, you find the rests of the military hospital of the Italians. Till up to about 3000 metres you can find the rests of the old army route. For us bikers the old tracks are ideal. Wide enough and in winding roads, they meander most in a passable way at the mountain ridge and through steep rock faces down through Terrain, which is usually reserved for ramblers and climbers. Overwhelmed by these impressions we finally reach the old Italian town Bormio. A sudden change in the weather is appearing. The last kilometres to Saint Caterina in the Valfurva are a race against the impending rain. Today, we are still the winners.
In S. Caterina the are a lot of hotels. I recommend: Hotel "Baita Fiorita" www.compagnoni.it -wellness area with sauna and jacuzzi, fantastic cuisine

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5. day: Gavia pass
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thunderstorm at Forcellina Montozzo
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Today a classic of the Giro d'Italia is waiting for us - the Gavia - pass. The asphalt road, for cars more or less blocked, meanders up to 2652 metres, always having the glacier mountains in your view. During the break on the mountain peak, I inspect with interest the pictures of the heros of the Giro. Often they reached the top in a heavy snowstorm even in summertime while wearing only short jerseys. A sudden change in the weather in the high mountains met us today, too.

After the fast mountain glissade into the Pezzo valley another executioner is waiting for us. The crossing to Pejo over the Forcellina Montozzo is tough. Again, we have to surmount about 1000 altitude metres up to the Rifugio Bozzi al Montozzo. Dark clouds were brewing and we rushed off. The moment I was reaching the embrasure pushing my bike, it became dark and it started to hail. In the distance you could notice flash of lightning. Dangerously, the thunder rumbled through the mountains. A screenplay could not have been written in a better way. However, I am not interested in the cooperation of the film. The upper part of the usually passable way changes fast into a torrent. We have to come down to Pejo. I know this area because of a ski vacation as the crow flies it is not that far away. The Lago di Pian Palu is situated blue shimmering some hundred altitude metres underneath us. Down there the sudden temperature drop is over. The picturesque view of the lake cannot warm us up because within a few minutes we arrive totally snoaked and filthy at Pejo and find accommodation in my old ski hotel.
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6. day: Lake Garda
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Riva Transalp 2000 zum Vergrößern klicken
The clouds have gone. The breaks at the bike are adjusted and we are on the way into the valley di Solo, which today is a credit to its name. Beginning our way from Dimaro the route leads along the steep Brenta group to Madonna di Campiglio, the famous skiing place. Another pass is still waiting for us, the Bregn de l'Ors. It requires a last thirty minutes way of pushing the bike. Then it rewards us with a incredible long gravel downhill. Easily, we roll down to Ponte Arche. We still can manage for Lake Garda today. Although, it will be a forced ride on the street, the last run starting from Tenno lake over the old street to Riva brings us a feeling of elation which lets us forget the stresses and strains of today. Exactly at 7 p.m. we "freshly-baked" bikers we touch our glasses with beer at the central place at the harbour of Riva (picture). 400 kilometres and 11400 altitude metres divided into six stages lay behind us. Everything was all right, on the way we had just one flat tyre. We are ready for Transalp 2001... The tour took place during the 2nd September week in 2001.
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conclusion
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trail to Bocchetta di Forcola zum Vergrößern klicken

This transalp is a real dream tour. The weather was fantastic, it could not have been better. Because of such conditions the trails over the tree-border became a great enjoyment. Especially, the phase after the pass Umbrail to the Bocchetta di Forcola was a highlight. In combination with the route of the Transalp 2001 beginning from Lago Cancano to the Passo dell'Alpe and further crossing the Gavia pass and Montozzo, there is probably no nicer route in the high alpine area, which is completely passable. On the last day, the phase was a little bit too long. Here it is advisable to have one more overnight stay to reach the Lake Garda via Val di Lomasone (review to Transalp 1996) at the last day.

If you are on the way in the Alps, once you have to negotiate the Stilfser pass by bike. Although, there is mostly much traffic on the street in the summertime starting from 10 a.m., it is a great experience. If you have an appropriate phases plan you will arrive up there just in time. At the end of August, the street is completely blocked for cars for one day and only belongs to the cyclists.
Information about that: www.stelviobike.com
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